Helpful publications:

Peonies by Allen Rogers (Timber Press)

The Gardener's Guide to Growing Peonies by Martin Page (Timber Press)

The Peony by Alice Harding (Saga Press/Timber Press)

Peonies by Jane Fearnley-Whittingstall (Abrams)

The Siberian Iris by Currier McEwen (Timber Press)

The Gardener's Guide to Growing Irises by Geoff Stebbings (Timber Press)

The Gardener's Peony by Martin Page (Timber Press)

The Genus PAEONIA by Josef Halda with James Waddick (Timber Press)

 

Web Resources:

American Peony Society

Pacific N.W. Peony Society

Heartland Peony Society

American Iris Society

Society for Siberian Irises

Frequently Asked Questions:

Q: Why are there ANTS on my peony buds?
A: As the buds swell, they secrete a sweet nectar that attracts the ants. Once the buds open the ants usually leave (contrary to some belief, their presence is not necessary for the buds to open!).

Q: Is it true that peonies don't like to be MOVED?
A: Their root systems are slow in establishing; moving frequently delays that development. An old saying is that...."Peonies sleep the first year; creep the second and leap the third year...". If they haven't developed and bloomed after their third year, by all means move them as they most likely don't like something.....their position/location/planting conditions,etc.

Q: Will DEER EAT my peonies?
A: We suppose they will eat anything if hungry enough, but peonies are considered deer-resistant and normally they will not bother them. Peonies contain a chemical they find objectionable. Young deer may try but soon learn and move on.

Q: My peonies have to be supported; do all peonies require SUPPORT?
A: Many of the older, more common tall lactiflora varieties are treasured as cut flowers for their long, multi-budded stems. But with more than 3500 named varieties and modern hybridizing, many shorter and stronger-stemmed choices not requiring support are available. Many are considered "landscape" plants; ask us for suggestions!

Q: Can peonies be grown in a POT?
A: Because of their rapidly expanding root size, they will quickly outgrow most pots. We consider pots as only a temporary "transportation means" for first year plants and recommend transplanting them to their permanent location during the next dormant fall period. If you have no other option (apartment/condo) you might be successful with shorter/smaller "landscape" varieties in a large wine barrel or similar-sized planter for several years.

Q: Are peonies DROUGHT-RESISTANT?
A: Yes, after their root establishment in the first year or two. However, to obtain the maximum plant growth/development, we recommend watering them (1" week) during dry periods (usually July through Sept. in the our region).

Q: Can peonies be grown in all CLIMATE ZONES?
A: Since peonies require several hundred hours of cold dormancy below 40 deg. F to trigger successful bloom, they generally don't do well south of San Francisco, CA or Birmingham, AL. (exceptions may be higher/cooler mountain areas).

Q: Why don't my peonies BLOOM?
A: Give them 3 years in their location (they've had their chance to "sleep, creep and leap"! )...then try relocation. The following are the most likely reasons for not blooming:

• Planted too deep. They should be positioned no more than 1" to
1-1/2" from top of crown (base of buds) to top of soil in milder zones; 2" (plus temporary winter mulch in the coldest zones) in the midwest and colder areas of the U.S.
• Getting less than 1/2 day of sun.
•Too crowded; under tree canopy/within tree or shrub root zones.
• Buds are being killed by late frosts and/or botrytis.
• Plant has been moved or divided too frequently (needs a 3-year chance at least).
• Fertilized excessively....too much nitrogen (all foliage/no bloom).
• Root has rotted and died; planted in a low, soggy or water-logged area without free-draining conditions. Root crown burned by fertilizer (place in circle around outer root zone; not ON crown).

Q: Why have my peony LEAF EDGES turned GRAY-BLACK (and sometimes on stems)?
A: It is most likely an airborne fungus called botrytis and is commonly a problem during cool, damp spring weather conditions. Non-chemical efforts can usually keep it in check. In our experience, plants with adequate air circulation space around them are less likely to contact botrytis. Be vigilant and cut infected foliage off as soon as it is noticed and dispose of it in the trashcan (don't compost!). You may find compost teas such as "Soil Soup" successful in inhibiting botrytis. In severe cases the foliage may be sprayed several times 10-14 days apart in the spring with a copper-based fungicide such as "Micro-cop" or similar fungicides recommended for botrytis on peonies.